Cotton is a natural fibre that is one of the most in-demand fabrics in the world. India is leading producer but cotton is also a water intensive crop. The alternative, organic cotton, that is grown using natural fertilisers uses less water than regular cotton. Although increasing, currently the production of organic cotton comprises just 1% of total cotton production as it takes time for the soil to heal from the harsh fertilisers. Farmers find it difficult to wait the 3 years that it takes for the soil to be left untouched in order to regenerate. This lower supply makes organic cotton more expensive and in some cases unavailable for various uses. In India, cotton based industries play an important role in sustaining the livelihoods of 40 to 50 million people directly or indirectly. ​

Another alternative to regular cotton is indigenously grown Kala cotton from the Kutch region in the western part of India. Grown organically without the use of pesticides and entirely from rain-fed water, this cotton is carbon-neutral and resilient to diseases. However, the fibres are short in length and this makes it textured and difficult to be woven on anything other than on handlooms. Our kala cotton fabrics are handwoven by generational artisans from Kutch. The weavers are also skilled in the art of natural dyeing. 

Organic cotton, especially the indigenous Kala cotton, represents a sustainable and ethical choice in fashion, aligning with our commitment at Arras to create garments that are kind to both people and the planet. 

At Arras, we are striving to shift toward 100% organic cotton use in our products, but we face several challenges in this transition:

1. Shortage and Unethical Practices: Despite our desire to use only organic cotton, we encounter difficulties due to the shortage of certified organic cotton. The market is rife with unethical practices, such as fake certifications that make it challenging to verify the authenticity of organic claims. This undermines our efforts to provide genuinely sustainable products to our customers.

2. Limited Access for Small Businesses: As a small business, we struggle to source authentic organic cotton in small quantities. Many certified suppliers prefer to deal with larger orders, which makes it difficult for businesses like Arras to secure a reliable supply of organic cotton. 

3. The High Cost of Certification: GOTS certification, widely recognised as the gold standard for organic textiles, involves significant costs. However, the cost of certification adds another barrier; obtaining a Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification can range from INR 1,08,000/- to INR 5,40,000/- (€1,200 to €6,000) per year, depending on the size of the business. These expenses are often prohibitive for small brands like ours. Besides the certification fees, there are costs for annual audits, testing, and maintaining compliance, which can make it an expensive endeavour for small businesses.

Given these challenges, we sometimes use high-quality conventional cotton sourced from ethical suppliers as a more sustainable alternative to synthetic fabrics. Conventional cotton, when grown and processed responsibly, has a lower environmental footprint than synthetic fibres, which are petroleum-based and non-biodegradable. Additionally, we also prioritise the use of Kala cotton, sourced directly from ethical suppliers who adhere to sustainable farming practices and fair labor conditions.

At Arras, we remain committed to sustainability and transparency in our sourcing practices. We are continuously exploring new ways to increase our use of organic cotton and other sustainable materials while supporting ethical suppliers and local farmers. By choosing our products, you are supporting a brand that values both the planet and the people who make our clothes.