Is Eri Silk Ethical? Understanding Ahimsa Silk from Assam

When I first started working with Eri silk, one of the things that drew me to it was the idea behind it. Eri silk is often called Ahimsa silk or peace silk, because traditionally the silkworm is allowed to complete its life cycle before the cocoon is harvested.

But is Eri silk actually ethical? As with most things in textiles, the answer isn't quite as simple or straightforward as a label.

What Makes Eri Silk Different?

Eri silk comes from the silkworm Samia ricini, which is native to the northeastern parts of India, particularly Assam and surrounding regions.

Unlike conventional silk production, where the cocoon is generally collected while the silkworm is still inside, Eri silk is traditionally produced from open or pierced cocoons after the moth has emerged.

The result is a distinctive silk with a soft, slightly textured, matte appearance.

It is also one of the reasons Eri silk is often associated with the term Ahimsa silk.

Does "Ahimsa Silk" Mean No Animals Are Harmed?

This is where Eri silk gets interesting.

Eri silk is often called Ahimsa silk or peace silk because the silkworm is allowed to leave the cocoon before the silk is collected. The moth is not killed as part of the yarn-making process.

Once the moth emerges, it is often kept on a small stick or surface where it can lay its eggs and continue the cycle. Eri silkworms also have a very short adult lifespan—only a few days.

And there is another part of this relationship that is often overlooked. The silkworm itself is also used as a source of protein by local communities. So the different parts of the lifecycle have traditionally had different uses.

Does that make Eri silk completely non-violent? Perhaps not.

Ultimately, the silk is still being produced for human use, and the relationship between humans, the silkworm, the moth and the material is more complicated than the words peace silk might suggest.

Why Eri Silk Has Traditionally Been Part of Assam

Eri silk isn't a new trend. It has been part of the textile traditions of Assam and other parts of Northeast India for generations.

Eri silkworms are reared by communities in the region, and the resulting yarn has traditionally been spun and woven into textiles for everyday clothing and household use.

The relationship between the silk, the people who produce it, and the local environment is part of what makes Eri so interesting. It isn't simply a fabric that was invented to appeal to today's demand for "ethical fashion." It has a much older history.

Is Eri Silk More Sustainable?

Eri silk has several qualities that make it appealing if you're trying to buy more thoughtfully.

It is a natural fibre, biodegradable at the end of its life, and can be produced through relatively small-scale, decentralised systems of rearing, spinning and weaving.

But natural does not automatically mean sustainable.

There are still questions around:

• how the silkworms are raised
• how much land and water are involved
• how the fibre is processed
• dyes and chemicals used
• how far the finished textile travels
• how long the finished garment is actually used

No textile is impact-free.

So, Is Eri Silk Ethical?

Eri silk has the potential to be one of the more considered choices for someone looking for a natural, traditionally produced silk.

Its association with Ahimsa silk comes from a production method in which the silkworm is generally allowed to emerge from the cocoon before the silk is harvested.

But ethical textiles require us to look beyond a single word on a product page.

Ask questions.

Know who made your clothes.

Understand the material.

Buy fewer pieces that you genuinely love.

For us, that is what makes a textile worth bringing home.